gil.s

It is 2 mm balsa sheet. In inches it is 5/64”.

gil.s

The fuselage sheets are now glued.

Some sending of the edges.

Glue the top cover of the fuselage.

The wood cover of the front

the main beam of the fuse bottom.

The tail bottom

Now on the fuselage. Will need some serious sanding.

gil.s

Preparing the tape in advance before glueing the bottom. This will save time when attaching the bottom sheets with the glue on.

Let it dry for a while.

flywilly

My Feedback: (121)

Coming along very nicely. I would precut that bottom tail block on a band saw to the approximate shape to reduce sanding, I’m lazy whenever possible.

gil.s

Thanks!
Yes, it makes sense.

gil.s

The fuselage is coming along nicely. I will now build the Canalyzer to assure proper fit to the fuselage and sanding. After that I will glue the cowl and build the canopy.

gil.s

So this is the Canalyzer and Jig.

The Jig is done, using CA.

RICKSTUBBZ

Because of your build I did hop over to the "Flight Hobby" website the other day to check out what all they offered.
I was in for sticker shock when I converted the cost of their kits. And I didn't even get to the shipping part.

None the less, it sure appears to be a well engineered airplane with all the right tools available to build it square...


What is the theory on using a Canalyzer?

gil.s

Thanks for following!
Yes, Japanese kits are not cheap, but I enjoy the process, and F3A 70 size planes are a rare find.

The Canalyzer streamlines the slipstream on the rudder and elevator, for better stability, and knife edge flying.

flywilly

My Feedback: (121)

Hey Rick,
Now is the time to buy a flight hobby kit. The yen to $ exchange rate is very favorable; today about a 37% discount. I buy from RC-Japan, they are great to deal with.
Flight Hobby kits are top quality as you can see in this build thread.
T-cans definitely increase rudder authority. Pattern moving to constant, generally slower, speed; more ‘gadgets’ are needed to provide aerodynamic assistance.